Vitreous-Enamelled Jewellery:
A Voyage of Colour
What is vitreous enamel (the ‘in a nutshell’ bit)?
At its core, enamel is the fusion of powdered glass with metal.
What is enamelling (the technical bit)?
Though there are various enamelling techniques, the fundamental principle behind them is the same. The process begins with a glass compound typically consisting of quartz sand, borax, potassium and iron oxides, which, when combined, is colourless. Colour is added by incorporating a variety of metal oxides and chlorides. The compound is then milled into a fine powder and washed, creating a paste. Next, the paste is carefully applied to the piece of jewellery using a specially adapted pen nib. Once dry, the piece is heated to temperatures often exceeding 1,000 degrees Celsius until the enamel turns to glass, a process known as vitrification. After cooling, the vitrified enamel is polished with a carborundum file and refired to a shiny finish. Moments later you’re holding in your hands an object of unmistakable beauty and refinement.
That’s broadly the definition you’ll find in a good dictionary, minus perhaps the last bit.
Did you know, by the way, that vitreous comes from the Latin ‘vitreum’, meaning ‘glass’?
The story of enamel (the historical bit)
Although its exact origins are unknown, we do know that the art of vitreous enamelling has been practiced since antiquity: the Mycenaeans of ancient Greece were producing gold rings inlaid with enamel from the 13th century BC. Since then, many cultures across the world have added different styles and techniques to the art form.
A few stand out in the evolution of enamelled jewellery:
Cloisonné enamel (“Cell” in English)
This is a technique in which flat wires are laid onto a metal base to create a design. Enamel is then applied into these raised “cells” and fired.
This technique of enamelling flourished during the Byzantium era (330–1453 AD). In the 10th century, it was introduced to Germany by Theophanu, a Byzantine princess, who had travelled from her native land to marry the Holy Roman Emperor, Otto II.
Champlevé (“Level field” in English)
This technique is almost the opposite of cloisonné. In this process, the metal base is etched, engraved or struck to form channels and compartments that are then filled with enamel.
This style reached its zenith during the 12th century and was widely used on religious objects. A similar technique called basse-taille (applying a translucent enamel over etched recesses) emerged in the 13th century. The chalice (pictured), made by the Sienese goldsmith Guccio di Mannaia for Pope Nicholas IV, is a superb example
Chalice made by Guccio di Mannaia for Pope Nicholas IV
Pierre Reymond: plaque of Jael killing Sisera, 1550–1575
Émail Peinture (“Painting enamel” in English)
A revolution in enamelling occurred in the late 15th century, when the Pénicaud family invented a new method of “painting” with enamels. Developed in the town of Limoges, the method is often referred to by that name.
In this process, a single-colour enamel paste is fired onto a metal background to form a base to which a picture is then hand-painted. Other colours are then painted on in the order of their melting points, starting from the highest to the lowest, to prevent the colours from “bleeding” together.
This was the first time that enamel colours touched one another rather than being separated by wires or metal. Portraits, landscapes and other scenes could now be realistically reproduced. By the 16th century, enamellers like Pierre Reymond and Leonard Limousin had developed the art of portraiture to a high standard.
Guilloché
This is a method of enamelling over a precise, repetitive pattern. The pattern is mechanically engraved – a process often referred to as engine-turning – following which enamel is applied. After firing, the patterns on the metal become visible.
By the late 19th century, guilloché enamel had become fashionable. This style of enamelling was made famous by the Russian jeweller and master goldsmith Carl Fabergé. His famed Imperial Easter eggs still inspire awe worldwide, demonstrating the breathtaking beauty that can be achieved when the finest goldsmiths and enamellers work closely together.
Carl Fabergé: The Coronation Egg, 1897
The history of enamelling is both enlightening and fascinating. It is intertwined with much of civilisation as we know it. The study of one is a study of the other: cultures, customs and migrations. We’ve only touched upon some of the traditions and techniques; the story of enamel includes many other styles, such as plique à jour, ronde bosse and Pertabghar. But we hope we’ve given you at least a flavour of the rich history of vitreous-enamelled jewellery. And, if your interest is piqued, there’s thankfully no shortage of excellent study material out there.
Our personal journey
A love for vitreous enamelling has been in our blood since 1966, the year a young jeweller and an enameller, both still in their teens, decided to go into business together. (Thankfully they also got married and had a family, but that’s another story.)
Drawing on their respective skills, they began creating jewellery enriched with enamel. In the ensuing years, they perfected their art, inspired by some of the finest enamelled jewels of the past. Several decades and award-winning designs later…
…Welcome to Vitrify England.
Still a family business, we continue to manufacture only the finest torch-fired, vitreous-enamelled jewellery. Our mission statement, of which we’re very proud, is to create enamelled products that will be enjoyed, treasured and passed down through the generations.
Set in precious metal and using enamels selected for their vibrancy, each piece is lovingly handcrafted in our Worcestershire-based workshops by our team of dedicated enamellers and jewellers. This commitment to enduring quality is why we’ve adopted “kiln” yellow as our brand’s official colour. Representing molten enamel in the vitrification process, it’s our guarantee to you that every piece is the genuine article. The real McCoy. That, at Vitrify England, we never use the short-lived imitation enamel so prevalent in today’s marketplace.
Enamoured by enamel. We hope you are, too.